A quick trip through Honduras, with no problems at the border, saw up back in El Salvador, this time in the North. Rio Sapo, or frog river is a clean, blue green river that runs through Northern El Salvador, and was a wonderful place to camp. Cheap, clean, peaceful and a little off the beaten track we spent 3 days reading in the hammock, swimming in the river and exploring the river banks where an army of tadpoles swum in the shallows.
45km from the country's capital, Suchitoto is typical Salvadorian town, with colorful cobbled streets, friendly locals and a bright and social central square. Our days here were spent sampling snow cones and fresh pastries in the central square, drinking coffee and drinking beer. The town also had numerous galleries and a couple of notable museums to wander around between food and drink stops.
A short morning trip from town, we were met by local guides and taken on a tour of a former FMLN base, to learn a little more about the Salvadorian Civil War. From 1979–1992 left wing organisations fought for control of the country against the military and administration, which was receiving funding and arms from the USA. The tour included their forest hospital, school, bomb shelters and trenches which were all extremely basic, and provided only a minimal level of protection. Guides who were part of the gorilla army showed us though the area, and gave us a little insight into living conditions and their experience in the war. The hospital was a series of rock and wood shelters built in the forest in the hope that natural building materials would help hide them from the enemy above. The hospital was regularly moved to help keep its location secure and huts were separated to minimise damage during bombing raids. The hospital suffered extreme shortages of medicine and supplies, most of which had to be delivered to the rebel strong hold by foot. Soldiers had received help from an American doctor, and the tour included a look at his sleeping shelter and the tranches he had dug to protect himself from bombing. One of the museums in town showed a fascinating documentary filmed during the war about the FMLN and its soldiers, who all seemed to have dashing 1980s good looks, Levi flares and flowing rebellious locks tucked into berets. They were so fashion forward that I’m surprised they had any time to fight in a war.
A short morning trip from town, we were met by local guides and taken on a tour of a former FMLN base, to learn a little more about the Salvadorian Civil War. From 1979–1992 left wing organisations fought for control of the country against the military and administration, which was receiving funding and arms from the USA. The tour included their forest hospital, school, bomb shelters and trenches which were all extremely basic, and provided only a minimal level of protection. Guides who were part of the gorilla army showed us though the area, and gave us a little insight into living conditions and their experience in the war. The hospital was a series of rock and wood shelters built in the forest in the hope that natural building materials would help hide them from the enemy above. The hospital was regularly moved to help keep its location secure and huts were separated to minimise damage during bombing raids. The hospital suffered extreme shortages of medicine and supplies, most of which had to be delivered to the rebel strong hold by foot. Soldiers had received help from an American doctor, and the tour included a look at his sleeping shelter and the tranches he had dug to protect himself from bombing. One of the museums in town showed a fascinating documentary filmed during the war about the FMLN and its soldiers, who all seemed to have dashing 1980s good looks, Levi flares and flowing rebellious locks tucked into berets. They were so fashion forward that I’m surprised they had any time to fight in a war.